Temple of the Warriors!

Overview of the El Caracol Observatory

El Caracol, the Observatory, is a unique structure at pre-Columbian Maya civilization site of Chichen Itza. El Caracol, which means 'snail' in Spanish, is so named due to the spiral staircase inside the tower.

The structure is dated to around AD 906, the Post Classic period of Mesoamerican chronology, by the stele on the Upper Platform.

It is suggested that the El Caracol was an ancient Mayan observatory building and provided a way for the Mayan people to observe changes in the sky due to the flattened landscape of the Yucatán with no natural markers for this function around Chichen Itza. The observers could view the sky above the vegetation on the Yucatán Peninsula without any obstruction.

Mayan astronomers knew from naked-eye observations that Venus appeared on the western and disappeared on the eastern horizons at different times in the year, and that it took 584 days to complete one cycle.

They also knew that five of these Venus cycles equaled eight solar years. Venus would therefore make an appearance at the northerly and southerly extremes at eight-year intervals.

Of 29 possible astronomical events (eclipses, equinoxes, solstices, etc.) believed to be of interest to the Mesoamerican residents of Chichén Itzá, sight lines for 20 can be found in the structure. Since a portion of the tower resting on El Caracol has been lost, it is possible that other observations will never be ascertained.

The El Caracol Observatory and Ball Park

History of Tulum

Here's Chuck along the Atlantic coast and in front of the ruins of Tulum, one of the few Mayan ruins situated on the cliffs overlooking the ocean.

Tulum means fence, trench or wall, and is the name given to the site in recent times because of the wall surrounding it, although its ancient name was possibly Zama, a corruption of Zamal (morning), associated with the dawn. This is an ideal name for the site, as sunrise in Tulumis a superb sight.  The first mention of this city was made by Juan Diaz, who was on Juan de Grijalva's expedition that reached the coast of the Yucatan peninsula in 1518. He wrote, "We followed the coast day and night; on the following day... we sighted a city or town so large that Seville would not have appeared bigger or better... a very tall tower was to be seen there..." which no doubt refers to Tulum and the building known as the Castle, standing on the edge of the cliff.

In Juan de Reigosa's Las Relaciones de Yucatan, written in 1579, Zama is mentioned as a walled site with stone buildings which included a very large one that looked like a fortress. Pedro Sanchez de Aguilar, author of Informe Contra Idolorum Cultores del Obispado de Yucatan, (Madrid, 1639) mentions the coast of Zama when telling the story of ten shipwrecked Spaniards who were taken prisoner by the chieftain Kenich. Among them was Geronimo de Aguilar, who later became Hernan Cortes' interpreter during the Conquest of Mexico.

After this there are no other references to Tulum until Juan Pio Perez in a letter dated 1840 says that Juan Jose Galvez had visited Ascencion Bay, discovering that between there and Cape Catoche there were two ancient cities, Tancah and Tulum, the latter surrounded by walls.

In 1842, John L. Stephens and Frederick Catherwood visited tho site and later made it known to the world with the book Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, where Stephen's text is complemented by Catherwood's magnificent illustrations. During the Maya uprising of the War for the Castes, which began in 1847 and lasted until 1901, Tulum was occupied several times by rebels because of the protection its wall afforded. In 1871 it became one of the sanctuaries of the "Speaking Cross" cult, led by the Indian woman Maria Uicab, who was known as the patron saint or queen of Tulumn.

Several expeditions reached Tulum later. In 1895, W. H. Holmes made two drawings of the area from his yacht, and in 1913 Sylvanus G. Morley and J.L. Nussbaum paid a short visit to the site.

The Carnegie Institution of Washington organized expeditions in 1916, 1918 and 1922 led by Morley and including other noted researchers. In 1937, members of the Mexican Scientific Expedition studied various sites on the east coast of the Yucatan peninsula, including Tulum. The following year Miguel Angel Fernandez began the work of restoring and in investigating the site. Finally, the National Institute of Anthropology and History, through the Southeast Regional Center is continuing investigation and maintenance of this important Maya archaeological site.

Tulum Photos

Overview of Cancun - 1987

Cancun before Cancun

Before Cancun became a tourist town and before the Spanish occupation, the Yucatan Peninsula was inhabited and dominated by Mayan civilizations until most of the local sites were abandoned by the15th century. For centuries, this region was mostly wetlands, mangroves, jungles, and virgin beaches. The Maya originally called the area “Kan Kun” meaning den of snakes, golden serpent, and abundant low-lying areas, which later evolved into “Can Cun” by the Spanish.

Cancun - Tourist Resort Town

It wasn't until 1968 when the Mexican government recognized the potential of this strip of land or peninsula - known as Cancun island - between Nichupte Lagoon and the Caribbean Sea to grow into a popular tourist destination. Development began immediately, establishing a connection between Cancun island and the Cancun mainland.

Cancun

Overview of Merida - Capital of the Yucatan

Mérida is the capital and largest city in Yucatan state in Mexico, as well as the largest city of the Yucatán Peninsula. The city is located in the northwest part of the state, about 35 kilometres (22 miles) off the coast of the Gulf of Mexico. The city is also the municipal seat of the Municipality of Mérida, which includes the city and the areas around it.

According to the 2015 census, the population of Mérida was 892,363, ranking 14th among the most populous Mexican cities. The Greater Mérida metropolitan area includes the municipalities of Mérida, Umán and Kanasín and had a population of 1,035,238 in the 2010 census. The municipality's area is 858.41 km2 (331.43 sq mi). Among the four cities that share the same name around the world, it is the largest - the other three being in Spain, Venezuela, and the Philippines.

The city, like much of the state, has heavy Mayan, Spanish, French, British, Lebanese and to a lesser extent Dutch influences. Mérida has the highest percentage of indigenous population within any large city in Mexico. The Maya are approximately 60% of the population.

Merida

Lots of stories about the trip!

Note: Some of the situations that are described below might be of use when you travel and get into bad situations. At least you can always laugh about it after the fact!

San Francisco Air Port

This trip to Mexico was one of those that try the patients of people and luckily I had traveled enough to be ready for it even if my traveling companion wasn't. It of course, started out with Mexicanna Airlines. We boarded around noon in San Francisco and the plane was full as it was the week before Christmas and everyone that lived in Mexico City or were vacationing were on the plane. We sat there for an hour and asked what was happening. The captain came on the horn and said that there were three 'important' people that wanted to go to Mexico, politicians and who knows whom else. They would offer a $100 and a later flight but no guarantee as to when that flight might be. A $100, give us a break. We were still there three hours later and the passengers were pissed and started yelling, "Get this sucker off the ground." We finally took off with the three 'important' people still waiting for a seat to Mexico.

Mexico City

So we stop in Puerto Vallarta and then to Mexico City which means we missed the flight to Cancun, the next flight to Cancun was 18 hours away. The airlines said they would give us a hotel room in the Holiday Inn at the end of the runway. "No way Jose", I said. I want a room at the Presidente del Prado in downtown Mexico, meals and a chit for a taxi. So off we went to the hotel and Jon was impressed. He got to see a little of Mexico City, the Opera House, House of Tiles, and a Christmas festival in the square across the street.

Cancun - Car and Hotel!

Well the next day we took off to Cancun and after landing the car agent said we were a day late. I said I had asked Mexicanna to wire them and the hotel that we would be a day late because of their idiotic delay in San Francisco. I threw a fit and we got a brand new Volkswagen that was built in Brazil. Nifty! Off to Cancun and the hotel.

You know what had to happen next, the hotel manager said there was "No room at the Inn!" It is Christmas and all the rooms are rented and you are a day late, tuff luck. Jon looked faint and I was pissed, asked if Mexicanna had called them. They didn't think so. While they were giving me a hard time I looked over the counter and saw a computer listing and there was my name. I almost jumped over the counter and pointed my finger at my name. I said,, "Don't give me that crap, there is my name and the payment and the room number." The hotel clerk really was shook up. Yeah, like rebook the room and get two payments for the same time period. So off to our hotel room and finally settling in to begin our vacation!

On the Road to Merida

Jon hadn't done much traveling and I indicated as we were driving to Merida that it was wise to keep one's mouth shut when confronted by the military or police. As we got to the border of Quintanna Rou and the Yucatan states, the military stopped us, about 30 soldiers all looking about 18 with machine guns. Once put the muzzle on the windowsill and slid it around and asked where we were staying and where we were gong. Of course a tour bus with a 100 people went flying by without being stopped. So I told him the information and Jon was fidgeting around looking grumpy. Great! So next the soldier asked if we were carrying any fruit like coconuts. I went to say "No" and what do I hear from the peanut gallery:

"The only coconuts in this car are between my legs!"

I was mad and said, "Keep quiet or you will be walking to Merida and I don't think you want that." The soldier asked what did Jon say and I smiled nicely and said we didn't have any contraband in the car, anyway the car was licensed in Mexico so I wasn't worried about that.

Merida

We finally made it to Merida and we just loved the city an old Spanish town and people were friendly. We got into town and couldn't find the hotel. The streets were all one way and we went around the same area about six times. It was funny and aggravating at the same time. We finally asked someone if they knew where the hotel was as they said, "Right across the street." We still had trouble getting to it the way the street signs were laid out. We went to Christmas mass in their beautiful cathedral and enjoyed just walking around.

Chechen Itza

Off to Chechen Itza and we did have several experiences, one which affected Jon. He was acting up at the pyramid and I was walking up the steps to take some pictures at the top. Jon was doing his impersonation of Carmen Miranda and wished he had those big wedgies on and a big feather hat like the Mayan priest.

There is a big iron chain that hangs from the top of the steps to the bottom, the pyramid must be about six stories tall. Jon got about 10 steps up and I was standing about 40 feet up and turned and told him not to look down because he might get dizzier than usual. He didn't like that remark so he grunted and then looked down. His eyes whirled around and he grabbed the chain and that was all Carmen Miranda wrote! I told him it was a good thing that this happened down there because he would have been in trouble if he got to the top because I was not going to carry him down. We still laugh about that and figured the priests took all those hallucinatory drugs just to get up those sharp, steep steps on the pyramids.

Return trip!

The rest of the vacation was great until we left Cancun. Naturally Mexicanna Airlines was four hours late to Cancun. Everyone was mad, they locked us in the airport lounge and one couple from San Jose, a professional couple, asked the airport personnel what was happen. They said, "No comprende!" The couple then told them off in Spanish because they were originally from Mexico. Finally the plane came and off to Mexico City. There we changed planes and off to San Francisco. Wait a minute, why are we landing in Quatalahara? They made us get off the plane and drove us to the airport and made us pay the airport tax again. Everyone was mad. Then we were told by a woman that the plane was over booked and when they opened the door, to rush to the plane and get our original seats. I flew like the wind and got my window seat. A man and his wife, Mexican, told me I was in their seats. I showed them my ticket and told them what had happened so far. They shook their heads, that sound normal they said. Just stay there, we will grab some other seats. There was almost a riot, anyone in a seat just hung on! The back of the plane was full of illegal immigrants and all they talked about was how to get past the immigration counter at the airport. Maybe some one can explain how I as a citizen have my passport checked and rechecked and these people work in the US and then go back to Mexico for the holidays and come back in through the airport and not get caught?

San Francisco!

Finally we got back to the City and we kissed the ground. So good to be home! This was the second most horrible experience I have ever had when flying. The other was Olympic Airlines, Greek, as you can read about on my web pages on Greece and Egypt.